Acpi Corruption

[Taelon]

It's very possible to replace the caps and get a working board. However make sure you get good quality Low ESR caps, and don't replace only the ones that look bad, replace all of them.

At least one of the sites I linked to earlier has DIY instructions for replacing the caps, the biggest thing to remember is that the board is multi-layer (traces sandwiched in between the phenolic layers) so you need to apply the heat sparingly when removing the caps. The best method I've found is to heat a lead and pry it up and out, don't even attempt to use a solder wick. You can use a solder sucker to remove excess but use a heated pin or dentist pick or similar to push the remaining solder out of the hole. Also be sure to mark the polarity on the board if it isn't already marked.

Found some more links:

How "Anyone" Can Replace Capacitors: http://www.overclockers.com/tips1081/

How to Get It Done the "Ugly" way: http://www.overclockers.com/tips758/

Some General Tips on Soldering Skills: non-working link removed

I didn't buy one of the kits, I got my parts from Mouser their prices were great, although the shipping was pretty high, anyway the board is still running strong a year later. Here's what I used on my Abit KT-7:

<table class="bluetable" border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="2"> <tbody><tr> <td class="rowheading">
</td> <td class="rowheading" align="center">Mouser
Part #</td> <td class="rowheading" align="center">Mfr.'s
Part #</td> <td class="rowheading" align="center">Manufacturer
Description
Your Part#</td> <td class="rowheading">Order
Qty.</td> <td class="rowheading" align="center">Availability*</td> <td class="rowheading" align="center">Price</td> <td class="rowheading" align="center">Ext.</td> </tr><tr bgcolor="#eef0f4"> <td class="normalfont" align="center">
</td> <td class="normalfont">647-UPW0J222MPD6</td> <td class="normalfont">UPW0J222MPD6
Nichicon</td> <td class="normalfont">6.3V 2200uF 10x25
</td><td class="normalfont" align="center"> 10</td> <td class="normalfont" align="center"> 10 Ships Immediately
</td><td class="normalfont" nowrap="nowrap">$ 0.590</td> <td class="normalfont" nowrap="nowrap">$ 5.900</td> </tr><tr bgcolor="#eef0f4"> <td class="normalfont" align="center">
</td> <td class="normalfont">140-HTRL160V4.7</td> <td class="normalfont">140-HTRL160V4.7
Xicon</td> <td class="normalfont">160V 4.7uF 105C
</td><td class="normalfont" align="center"> 2</td> <td class="normalfont" align="center"> 2 Ships Immediately
</td><td class="normalfont" nowrap="nowrap">$ 0.130</td> <td class="normalfont" nowrap="nowrap">$ 0.260</td></tr></tbody> </table>

[relicwre]

I appreciate your help on this. I'll start on it when I have time, but I'll probably use the boards for something else incase this happens again. Also that gameconsolerepair link doesn't work. I'll get back to you on the results.

[Chewy]

"I got another board, an M811 and put the same hardware on that board. It ran fine lastnight until this morning when I left for work while it did the job and it CORRUPED MY NEW BOARD."

most likely another hardware component is at fault! I have had cpu's that fried mobos and vice versa!

[Taelon]

Also that gameconsolerepair link doesn't work.

Apparently they removed the article, I'll remove the link here.

@rbrtpl; He stated later that when he inspected the boards they both had visibly bad caps. True there may be other hardware that is going or gone bad, but no way to really test it until the cap problem is sorted out.

[Chewy]

I was just warning that another component may be frying the mobo's.

[relicwre]

I got an Asus A7V600-X. We'll see how far this goes

[anonymez]

should go much farther than your previous boards, it is of much higher quality. though if you're outside the US, good luck getting support (asus support sucks here in aus, as its pretty much non-existant)

[relicwre]

Alright. it hasnt even been 24 hours yet and it seems to be doing the same thing again. At long last I estimated it to be the GFX 5500 card. I put the 5200 back in but I was probably too late. What does everyone else think?

[Chewy]

"I was just warning that another component may be frying the mobo's."

What does your utility say about the voltages after windows is loaded?
If you don't have the asus, then use

http://mbm.livewiredev.com/

also bios hardware monitor!

powersupply issues?

another component may be pulling too much power, but it would be one
like a cpu or system fan that's connecting to the mobo.

HAVE YOU DONE A REPAIR OF XP OR A CLEAN INSTALL AND LOADED
THE MOBO DRIVERS FOR THE NEW MOBO!

Sorry to shout, BUT!!!!!!!!!!!

[Taelon]

I would suspect the Power Supply, especially if it's a cheap generic brand. I can't emphasize enough the importance of good clean power, voltage spikes or varying voltages can and will damage any/all components in your system.

[relicwre]

Well my 350W I havent even had for probably 2 years is an Antec. I just went out and bought a 400W (still Antec) but its combined max out is 130W (+5,+3.3V). Do you think this will work?

[relicwre]

HAVE YOU DONE A REPAIR OF XP OR A CLEAN INSTALL AND LOADED
THE MOBO DRIVERS FOR THE NEW MOBO!

Well even if I repaired or did a clean install now, setup would just crash because it's already doing it. Page faults, NTOSKRNLs, etc.

[relicwre]

As we speak, a clean install and a repair are still failing to the 400W.

[Chewy]

As we speak, a clean install and a repair are still failing to the 400W.

Sounds more like memory, optical drive/os disk or hard drive problem.

[relicwre]

Well after long and hard extended tests, it comes to be the processor; the main trouble-maker of it all. Right now im looking for a few friends in town who might have any athlon systems with ddr ram so i can test theirs on my board.