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"One day men will look back and say I gave birth to the 20th Century". Jack The Ripper - 1888 Columbo moments... "Double Shock""The Greenhouse Jungle""Swan Song"FORUM RULES "You try to contrive a perfect alibi, and it's your perfect alibi that's gonna hang ya." (An Exercise In Fatality, 1974)
Which traditional holiday is celebrated in November involving a sizable roasted fowl? Are you guessing North American Thanksgiving? Wait, hold your giblets. In accompaniment there is also a soup of sweetened, spiced whisked blood.
Well that pretty much rules Thanksgiving out. You are left with St. Martin’s Day. Families and dining enthusiasts in Sweden continue to celebrate St. Martin with a roasted goose on 10 November, St. Martin’s Eve. If you check your Swedish almanac, the name Martin actually is honored on 11 November but in true Swedish tradition, the celebration takes place on the eve of the holiday.
In the case of Mårten Gås –as it’s fondly called in Swedish— any weekend evening mid November today considered seasonal (this coming weekend is most likely this year.) Most Swedes regard Mårten Gås as a tradition from Skåne, Sweden’s southernmost region, but are happy to embrace it as classically Swedish –and as good as any to throw a party. However, as is the case with most traditions, there is more to the story and in this case the origins come from further a-field.
St. Martin’s Day traces its origins back to the legend of the 4th century St. Martin of Tours, France. There are several unconfirmed versions of the story of how St. Martin and a goose share history’s annals.
The more colorful rendition tells of the betrayal of geese. St. Martin was a humble monk who in a modest effort to avoid being ordained a bishop hid among the monastery’s geese. Their cackling ousted him from his hiding place and he begrudgingly received his benediction.
In a sardonic twist to Christian compassion, he exacted his revenge by dining on his Judas for dinner. Whatever the truth, the feast migrated from France via Germany and Denmark to Sweden sometime in the 16th century.
Over the years, it has come to serve to commemorate Martin Luther, the father of modern Swedish Christianity. The popularity of this holiday most likely caught on as it coincided with the festivity of the autumn harvest as it still brings to mind abundant geese in Skåne.
So now that you are motivated in the spirit of cultural integration to give MÃ¥rten GÃ¥s a go you ask, “Where does one find a goose to cook?†Most market halls have some meat and poultry supplier who can probably sell you a goose. Local farms in more rural Sweden often will sell you a freshly slaughtered one. Check to make sure they deliver it “ready to cook.â€
If goose is too troublesome or pricy, a roasted turkey or even a baked chicken will do just fine to provide atmosphere for the feast. Just expect a contemptuous look from your Swedish friends, undoubtedly defenders of tradition, but don’t let them get your goose.
And what of the soup of whisked blood? If you are a traditionalist and want to preserve the purity of St. Martin’s vengeance, you will have to prepare Svartsoppa, or Black Soup. It is a sweet yet savory soup made from the blood drippings of the bird flavored with aromatic spices like cinnamon, clove and ginger.
If well prepared, the soup tastes more like rich gravy and is something to tell your family and friends you have ventured to prepare and eat. In all fairness most Swedes gladly opt out of this tradition, so if it turns your stomach no one will hold it against you. So what are you waiting for? Get goosed!
Cook your own MÃ¥rten GÃ¥s dinner!
Svartsoppa / Black Soup (serves 8-10)
40 centilitres blood
5 centilitres vinegar
2 teaspoon flour
1.8 liter stock or diluted dripping (can use bullion)
15 centilitres pureed prunes and/or apricots
5 centilitres black currant gell
2 tablespoons light brown sugar or syrup
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon cinnamon
10 centiliters red wine
3-4 teaspoons port wine or sherry
2 teaspoons cognac
Whisk together blood, vinegar and flour. Separately, heat stock and all spices for 15 minutes. Slowly add blood mix while vigorously mixing; avoid boiling. Remove soup from stove and strain if necessary. Add sugar, wine and cognac. Adjust to taste. If desirable garnish with boiled neck, wings and boiled plums, apricots and/or a slice of apple.
Roast Goose (serves 8)
1 thawed goose 5-6kg (10-13 lbs)
1 lemon
salt and white pepper to taste
30centiliter water
Alt. stuffing
3 green apples
10 seedless prunes
Pre-heat oven to 200 C. Rub goose inside and out with lemon. Add salt and pepper to taste. (alt: stuff goose with chopped apples and prunes) Sew together goose, both neck and body. Arrange goose on its side in a roasting pan. Add water. Cook for 30-40 minutes per side and finally with breast upright, total 2-2_ hours. Baste regularly. Stuffing can be served separately or in part added to the svartsoppa (see above.) Serve with apple sauce, red cabbage and your choice of potatoes.
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