I have some intermittent bootup issues with my thermaltake and raptor and overclock, but it usually just a minor inconvenience as the computer is booting so fast the system drive can't get up to speed quick enough.
I just hit enter and it boots. Every now and then when it's very cold I get an
overclock failed, and hit f? to enter setup and then I hit F10 save and it boots fine. Damn thing boots way too fast!
Jake Wants a New Computer or to build one!
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I hear ya , I'm back to stock with the AMD4000+ until I get a better one than the $.39 (That is cents after rebate ) in there now.
I seen an Antec 500W v2.0 for $55 shipped but I seen some posts about a high pitched squeal from some of them.Leave a comment:
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I've tested ultra brand memory(tiger direct stock) and found it lacking in meeting advertised specs,
and I found a nice review, very comprehensive of their new premium 550 watt power supply
The problem isn't that X2 550W doesn't meet ordinary power delivery expectations, but that every other power supply we've tested has been able to exceed them. Ouch.
that enermax 350 uncasms used is probably better, I had one of those and never a problem
jm,
pull that sob and put it in a lame computer before it burns out
my son pushed an undersized rosewill(newegg brand) for too long, got bad burns, lots of glitches, and
blew it up, the same 350's have worked for a couple of years fine under lighter loads. I had issues with my rosewill 450 and my overclock and replaced with the thermaltake 430.Last edited by Chewy; 11 Mar 2007, 04:47 AM.Leave a comment:
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Some PSUs have better performance than others at full load. Right now I have one of the Ultra V 500WATT PSUs (free after rebate ) in a box that when tested under full load goes down to 350WATT.Leave a comment:
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ed you are talking about reality watts, not claimed advertised smoke and mirror wattsLeave a comment:
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When a large corporation has decided to build a new model computer, how the engineers decide what CORRECT power supply in electrical term WATTS is need for the new computer.
By National Electrical Code (in USA only) a power supply rating of 500 watts means it can output 500 watts all the time without any problems such as overheating. And, brand name A to Z makes no difference 500 watts output from brand A is the same as 500 watts output from brand Z.
Watts in direct current circuits is a product of electrical terms VOLTS times AMPS. So watts=volts x amps
Volts = pressure or potential applied to the + and - power supply leads
Amps or millamps means the amount of current draw in each electrical circuit.
Hard drives, optical drives inside a computer require by electrical design 12 volts applied to the unit for it to function properly. And the amount of current draw depends of the design of the electrical circuits in the unit.
typical example:
Optical drive 12 volts times 3 amps equals 36 watts of power for that unit.
hard drive 12 volts times 4 amps equals 48 watts of power for that unit.
The addition in watts of all of these units inside your computer gives the MINIMUM of power in watts that is mandatory for the power supply.
So in reality if the sumation of all of these units equals 300 watts a correct size power supply is 500 watts. Always have a MINIMUM of 200 spare watts for the computer to function properly.
Last edited by ed klein; 11 Mar 2007, 01:01 AM.Leave a comment:
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Have you had any dealings with these people?
Also when I read the specs.. how do I tell if a burner will bitset?Leave a comment:
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So min I think is 500 watt or better to "keep the children fed"
you will need enough power if you want stability but pure numbers on a psu dont mean much
a decent 350w psu can be way better than a 500w no-name one
i am using a 353w enermax in one of my machines for years now and it definitely has its workload:
- oc'ed athlon64 3000+
- asus a8n sli board (939)
- nvidia 7900 vga
- 1 gb ram
- 3 sata + 1 ata drive
- 4550 nec burner
- additional fans: 2x 120 + 1x 80
- psu enermax 365P-VE (353w)
machine used for gaming and video conversion primarily
now i built a new rig with these components:
- athlon64 x2 4200
- msi k9n ultra (AM2)
- nvidia 7900
- 2gb ram
- 3 sata drives
- 4550 nec
- 2x 80 fans
- psu enermax noisetaker II EG495AX-VE (485w)Leave a comment:
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OMG prices have really come down a lot since I had this pc built.
Looks like I may be thinking of having another one built again soon.Leave a comment:
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I have 2 of Katz's PS's and my son got my new third one. Even tho it's rated at 430 and only 18A on the 12 volt rail it's running his 130$ vid card, 2 hard drives, 2 optical drives and several fans without a problem and he's overclocking a fair amount.
Add a better video card and forget it, you would need to go up to the 60$ range of PS. If you want true quality and lot's of power to spare expect to spend 80-100$ or more on a power supply.
over at cd freaks a lot of the reviewers using 6-10 dvd burners at a time favor these models
don't be fooled by thinking there is any truth in claimed wattage. It's mostly a irrelevant figure.Leave a comment:
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Chewy...
I read in PC gamer recently (at a doctor's office no less) that having a powerful enough power supply is needed to run multi power draining hardware correctly. Example MOST computer esp the older ones had 300-350 watt supplies. If you only have on hard drive.. a floppy and a cd rom this was more than enough. BUT if you have MANY things connect .. ie, a few cooling fans, 2 hard drives, 2 burners, a floppy, a universal card reader, HUGE video cards (esp duel SLIs) maybe a lan or other devices.. these thing draw a LOT of power and for them to run effectively they need to be feed enough power all at once to keep a smooth and running machine happy. So min I think is 500 watt or better to "keep the children fed".
You said memory.. ok this I want to know more.
I think you are referring to MAKE SURE I HAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH FOR RUNNING THE OS and THEN RUNNING ALL THE PROGRAMS esp multi-tasking?!!
Correct?
Thanks dude.........Leave a comment:
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Jake,
Here is what I will most likely go with. The CPU is overclockable so I figure I may play with that a bit.
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16811208022 Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103037 Processer
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16813131069 Mainboard
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16817153023 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16820148007 Memory
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16835106068 CPU Cooler
Somewhere in the $300 - $400 range; I haven't totaled it exact yet, since there is rebates involved, etc.
BTW, I never buy "Box Store" or "Branded" pc's, but that is just my pers. preference. In my experiences with friends/family who have owned all the big names, they have been very limited in what can be done with their pc's.
If a part fails, upgrading can be a pain, weird BIOS settings, & maybe worst of all, mediocre components. (DVD burners w/ no firmware updates, for example) Since the "brand name" is building on a "budget", they are going to cut corners everywhere possible.
I say, build your own, you will be very happy with it!
cheers, katzLeave a comment:
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you sound good to go then, just don't scrimp on a power supply or good memoryLeave a comment:
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Well I can BUILD a computer.. I have built a few In my time.
Believe it or not building for me is simple... programming, software, surfing (example: leaning to post, shrink files etc)
The ones I've built were sold pretty fast and it was easy for me to load windows.. after that step pthhtp! I use to get around the bias pretty good but it's been a while. The kid that works next to me works for a computer store (small, indy) and he can build, program and help me with anything I fall short with. Have faith in me.. a few things I can do some I can't and I can get a better machine for the money and not stuck with a BS mo-bo from dell.
thank ya manLeave a comment:
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